PVC clothing: how to choose the size and care for the material

PVC clothing is harder to buy right than ordinary clothes for two reasons. Many of the garments do not give – a glossy coating on a fabric without elastane does not stretch – and they are often sold in the same category as lingerie, where an opened package cannot always be returned. So the size has to be right first time.

Care is the other half. In practice, 'PVC clothing' covers three materials with different rules: polyester with a polyurethane coating, a glossy stretch fabric called wetlook, and latex. What is gentle on one of them can damage another.

This guide is practical: how to measure, how to read a size chart, how to put the garment on and how to wash, dry and store it. Which garments rank best and why is in best PVC clothing, and how the materials differ in depth in latex or PVC.

The words PVC, vinyl, wetlook and latex are used interchangeably in shops. Read the material declaration rather than the name – it determines both the choice of size and the care.

PU-coated polyester: fabric with a glossy layer of polyurethane. Black Level's dress, mini skirt, waist corset and PVC trousers are 100 per cent polyester with a polyurethane coating and no elastane, even though they are called 'Vinyl' in English. Wetlook: a glossy stretch fabric, for example 92 per cent polyester and 8 per cent elastane in Cottelli's wetlook skirt. Latex: natural rubber without fabric, as in Late-X latex stockings, 100 per cent latex at a thickness of 0.35 millimetres.

If it only says 'PVC' or 'vinyl' without percentages, look up the manufacturer's own page. In our reviews, retailers sometimes state a different material from the manufacturer.

Most manufacturers publish a size chart with body measurements – bust, waist and hips – not the garment's own measurements. This means the chart tells you which body the size is intended for, but not how long a skirt is or how high a pair of trousers sits. Here is what to do:

Measure with a soft tape measure, directly against the body or over thin underwear. The bust is measured around the fullest part, the waist around the narrowest and the hips around the widest part of the bottom. Keep the tape horizontal and do not pull it tight. Write down all three, even if you are only planning to buy a skirt.

Orion, which is behind Black Level, Cottelli, NO:XQSE and Late-X among others, uses a shared chart for women's clothing: XS (32/34) bust 74–81, waist 59–64, hips 84–91 cm. S (36/38) bust 82–89, waist 65–73, hips 92–98 cm. M (40/42) bust 90–97, waist 74–81, hips 99–104 cm. L (44/46) bust 98–106, waist 82–90, hips 105–112 cm. XL (48/50) bust 107–118, waist 91–102, hips 113–121 cm. 2XL (52/54) bust 119–130, waist 103–114, hips 122–132 cm.

Other brands have their own charts. Obsessive publishes a model-specific chart for the 859 corset with four measurements, where L/XL is bust 95–104, underbust 78–86 and waist 78–87 cm. If a retailer's chart says something different from the manufacturer's, the manufacturer's applies – in our reviews they sometimes differ by a whole size.

A garment fits closely in different places. A high-waisted, flared mini skirt: the waist governs. Tight trousers: the hips, since that is the widest point the trousers have to pass – Black Level's PVC trousers have a zip at each ankle precisely to make putting them on and taking them off easier. Waist corset: the waist. Dress: bust and waist. Suspender belt: both waist and hips, since it sits between them.

The elastane content is the only figure in the declaration that tells you anything about how forgiving a garment is. Obsessive 859 has 10 per cent, Cottelli's skirt and NO:XQSE's suspender belt 8 per cent, Black Level's men's shorts 6 per cent. Black Level's dress, mini skirt, waist corset and PVC trousers have no elastane at all.

Without elastane and without adjustment there is no margin upwards. If you are between two sizes in a garment like that, it is reasonable to go by the larger measurement. Garments with lacing give a little more room: Orion describes the lacing on Black Level's waist corset as 'ein wenig Spielraum' – a little room – and Obsessive 859 has a laced back and adjustable suspenders.

Skirt length, inside leg and corset height are rarely published. None of the garments in our review has a published garment measurement. So measure one of your own garments that fits the way you want – a skirt from waistband to hem, a pair of trousers from crotch to ankle – and compare with the manufacturer's images. It is an estimate, not a measurement, but it is better than guessing.

Men's garments use a separate chart. For Black Level's high-gloss shorts, M corresponds to EU size 48/50 with chest 94–101, waist 82–89 and hips 98–105 cm according to the manufacturer. The shorts are 94 per cent polyester and 6 per cent elastane with a polyurethane coating, and Orion describes them as four-way stretch – a PVC surface that gives, which is unusual.

The zip at the front is backed, which according to the manufacturer means neither skin nor hair gets caught when it is opened and closed. It is worth looking for on all PVC garments with a zip close to the body.

Orion's customer information has a piece of advice that applies to the manufacturer's entire clothing range: always wear underwear when trying the garment on. It is both hygiene and the best protection for your ability to return it – many shops will not take back garments that have been worn against the genitals, and the right of withdrawal often does not apply to sealed hygiene products that have been opened. Read the shop's terms before opening the package, and try it on a clean, dry body without body lotion.

PU-coated garments and wetlook are put on like ordinary clothes, but zips should be pulled carefully in one even movement, and the garment should not be pulled by the coating. Open all zips fully first – on Black Level's waist corset the zip runs the full height at the front, so that the lacing at the back does not need to be retied every time.

Latex demands more. Orion's customer information for latex garments describes it like this: dust the inside lightly with latex powder, roll stockings and the like down as far as possible, press out the air and pull the garment over your toes, then roll it up without letting air in. Remove rings, bracelets and piercing jewellery; Orion warns that nails and jewellery easily damage latex and suggests wearing gloves when dressing. Orion's care page also recommends showering beforehand and not using deodorant or perfume afterwards.

All three materials are hand washed. The differences are in the details:

According to Orion's customer information for Black Level garments: clean the garment before first use and then by hand after every use, in clear, lukewarm water with a mild detergent. Rub it dry with a soft, lint-free cloth and lay it on a towel, inside first. Zips and pockets must be completely dry before the garment is hung away. The shine is restored with a lint-free cloth.

Orion's material guide points out what damages the surface: strong cleaning products and massage oil can ruin polyurethane, and the coating can wear off if cleaned too hard. No washing temperature in degrees is published – lukewarm is what applies.

Orion specifies a gentle hand wash with a delicates detergent for Cottelli's skirt and NO:XQSE's suspender belt, and that dark colours should be washed separately. Obsessive's general care guide specifies hand washing at 20–30 degrees, no tumble dryer and drying flat away from sun and radiators, and for polyurethane ironing only with a steamer or on the reverse side at a low temperature. Close hook-and-loop fastenings and metal clips before washing so they do not catch on mesh or thin stockings.

Orion's care page for latex clothing specifies hand washing in lukewarm water, about 30 degrees, with a grease-free detergent. The customer information adds: rinse off soap residue with cold water, rub dry with a lint-free cloth, inside first. When the garment is completely dry, it is lightly dusted with latex powder, which according to Orion stops the surface from sticking together.

More advice on cleaning materials that end up close to the body is in how to clean sex toys.

Orion says PVC garments crease easily and should be hung on a hanger after cleaning, somewhere cool and dry and out of direct sunlight. Latex is stored powdered, clean, cool, dry and dark – according to Orion, too much sun can make latex dull and faded.

Two rules apply to both. Store the garment on its own and not together with products made of other materials, to avoid chemical reactions. And do not store it with garments in other colours or in dark plastic bags, which can cause discolouration. Orion recommends a cotton garment bag or tissue paper between garments. Latex must also be kept away from metals such as copper, brass and bronze. General advice on storing toys and accessories is in how to store sex toys.

None of the manufacturers in our review publishes an expected lifespan or its own warranty. What can be said is what causes wear. On PU-coated garments it is the surface: harsh cleaning, strong products and oil. On latex it is holes – Orion's material guide points out that latex clothing lacks fabric reinforcement and therefore tears more easily than vinyl clothing, and Orion's care page that a small hole is enough for the material to split. For latex stockings with a shaped foot, Orion also says that shoe insoles can discolour the latex.

Check the garment after every wash: if the coating is coming away, the latex has a hole or a seam has started to come apart, it is better to stop using it than to have it tear while you are wearing it.

Natural rubber latex can cause allergy, and Orion prints the warning for its latex stockings. If you have a latex allergy or suspect you do, choose PU-coated polyester or wetlook – neither contains latex according to the declarations in our review. Despite the similar name, elastane is a synthetic fibre and not natural rubber. If a garment gives you a rash, itching or other problems, take it off and contact a healthcare professional if it does not go away.

If you use condoms together with PVC or latex garments, the same rule applies as always: oil weakens latex condoms, so choose water- or silicone-based lube for the condom. More about lube in which lube should you choose. If you want something softer than PVC, read sexy lingerie, and if you use PVC as part of role play, BDSM for beginners.